OK here is the deal. Please read the complete description of this item before bidding on it or purchasing it. I hope you enjoy looking at our panels and if there are any questions you would like answered please feel free to contact me.
We can custom cut any of our panels to fit your needs. If you see a panel you like cut by a competitor we will be glad to draw and cut one for you similar to it. We will not copy a competitors design but we can design something similar. Please email us for prices on custom sizes and custom designed panels. Our prices are 25 to 50 percent less than most.
Thank you for visiting and looking at our work
We need exterior stair rails and have just started getting estimates. The first guy said he can make "whatever you want." Well, we're not sure exactly what we want, but we know that we don't like the standard hand rails and twisted posts we see everywhere in our neighborhood. When we asked about other options for the hand rail, we got the impression that they're only made in one or two styles. So, before I waste any more time - can someone please explain to me how this whole process works. Is there a primary source for the basic parts that the ironworker then welds together? If so, is there a catalog, or some place I can look at the choices? Is there a good resource for me to look at finished stair rails that are a bit out of the ordinary? (We want simple, clean lines - not scrolls and twists). Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Most people think of a deck as a rectangular structure, sometimes enclosed by railings, which basically functions as a raised platform outside a doorway exit. And this is what do-it-yourself-ers hope to achieve in their first, and possibly last, attempt at building one. Even many professional deck-builders don't think beyond this basic design concept. They view their work as a great accomplishment if the deck also has stairs and railings. A designer deck breaks out of this "deck as a platform" concept and adds many architectural elements to a deck that make it not only functional but exceptionally beautiful in its own right.
Let's take the way steps are handled.
An amateur will build boxy steps by constructing the risers to cover the tread. The professional deck-builder will expose the tread and cantilever it beyond the riser by 1 inch as shown at right.
A master deck-builder will take this a step further and extend this treatment to the entire perimeter by making at least one course of bordering plank all around the exposed sides and have the outermost course overhang all the facia boards. Then there is little distinction between steps and borders except the borders may also have railings.
In the photo at left, there are 3 courses of parallel border plank with the outer course cantilevered over the facia by 1 inch. Note how this configuration continues across the top step riser, highlighting the stair and repeating the planking pattern of the step below it.
Next, take the way railings are added to the deck.
Again the amateur will choose the easiest way to fasten the railing to the facia. He will construct a railing with no posts and extend each baluster over the facia and fasten it there. The professional deck-builder will use posts and a bottom rail between them on which to fasten shortened balusters. Usually that bottom rail is turned up on its edge. The master deck-builder will place the posts inside the facia and use a flattened bottom rail between them to hold the balusters centered in the rails.
When it comes to designer railings, then the master craftsman goes beyond mere evenly-spaced vertical balusters on horizontal rails and constructs a more complex pattern of rail and baluster. This gets very complicated when extended to stair railings because not all patterns will carry over to sloped configurations, like the pattern shown below here.
Sometimes the pattern must change completely such as when a lean-out deck railing encounters a stair railing. The designer deck might incorporate a tall narrow planter box to handle the discontinuity, as shown below here.
But the master craftsman is not deterred by this conjunction of disparate railings, like the lean-out railing intersecting a straight railing, and that intersecting yet a stair railing, shown below here.
Nor is he deterred by curved or bowed railings as shown below here.
Next, let's address planter boxes.
An amateur will build a box made of multiple courses of horizontal rectangular frames piled one on top another. The professional deck-builder will put a flat frame-plank cap on the top and miter the corners. The master deck-builder will first make a horizontally framed interior box, then add vertical slats around the exposed side and then add the flat plank-frame cap cantilevered 1 inch beyond that.
The designer builder will go even further and add a horizontal base and trim board that exhibit a 3/4 inch relief beyond the vertical slats before adding the cantilevered plank-frame cap, as shown at left.
The ultimate designer-planter will have the cap flare upward at 45?as shown to the right.
Note too, the cascading trapezoidal shape of the designer planters in the photos above and below.
Now, let's talk about seats.
The amateur will place the seat supports outside the facia board and let the seat hang halfway over it. He will place seat supports horizontally atop the posts and then lay flat planking over these supports.
The professional deck-builder will move the posts inside the edge far enough so that the outside edge of the seat is flush with the facia. He will place
T-cross boards onto each side of the post supports and finish their ends with a sloping or S-curve cut. He will also box the seat planking by framing the planks with a trim board all around the perimeter.
The master builder will turn the seat planking on edge in butcher-block fashion. The designer builder will now take this arrangement and remove every other seat plank in a skip-lath pattern. And he will contour his seats to conform to the direction-changing deck borders.
The ultimate seat construction takes this designer style and incorporates it into a lean-out railing so the seat has a comfortable back-rest.
Another ultimate treatment is to cascade the seating along the sides of wide stairs as shown at left,
or run them right down the center bend as shown here below.
Shown here below is this same treatment but with solid plastic 2x4s making seats that are uniformly curved .
Next, let's discuss screens.
The amateur uses prefabricated lattice purchased at a local supply yard. This screen is usually made from very low grade scrap material that the manufacturer is trying to salvage. The amateur incorporates the lattice into background or overhead screening or skirting almost as is, tacked onto the deck's framework or canopy frame, in 2x8, 4x4 or 4x8 panels.
Shown above is professional lattice skirting run beneath a cantilevered deck. Note the large seamless panels and meshing of the lattice strips at the corners. Note the change in diagonal strips to emphasize the corners without having to use vertical molding strips -- all important details.
The professional deck-builder will cut the panels to the appropriate size and frame-in the lattice with border trim. The master deck-builder will order upgraded lattice made from select lath strips, add architectural corners in the frame and, where appropriate, contour the frame and screen to accent the space.
The designer builder will fabricate his own lattice from scratch and make the strips on a table-saw by ripping high-grade all-clear lumber or by using seamless plastic lath strips. Moreover, the open spaces in the lattice will match the width of the lath strips, which is the most pleasing visual arrangement. Purchased prefab-lattice never has this equal-spacing.
He can go a step further and complement the lattice with vertical lath panels setting the lath at 45?to the plane of the panel. And he may set the panel's frame distinctly apart from the structure's framework, giving accent to the screens as individual elements on par with other design features, as in both the photo above and the very top photo.
Now let's get down to the deck planking.
The amateur will run the planks parallel to the building's wall. And he will butt-splice planks across a single joist. He will also place the splices where convenience and remaining lengths dictate. The professional deck-builder will systematically place a double joist at splice points and stagger his splices across two or more courses using boards as long as he can get.
The master deck builder will lay the plank at a diagonal and if the deck's width is short enough there will be no splicing needed. The photo above shows planking run at 60?to the house, 15? more than standard, just to avoid splicing !
If splices are required, he will do what is called "a floating square-butt splice" between joists. "Floating" because it's not done over any joist. The butt ends of each plank in this splice will be beveled so that one plank runs on top of the next plank. This minimizes the visibility of the splice as well as keeps out wetness and moss forming between the butt ends. Shown in the above photo at right, there are continuous 24ft runs of planking, yet no splices are visible.
Now, let's address handling a tree through a deck.
On the left is an opening in the deck for a mature tree; it uses a single 2x8 octagonal frame.
On the right is an opening in the deck for a young tree; it uses double 2x6 octagonal frames. It was constructed so that the inner ring could be easily removed as the tree-trunk expanded without impacting the deck.
Note the tightness of the splices and fit of the ring in the decks.
Next, let's address the deck's enclosure -- this element can turn a simple deck into a monumental showpiece ! Most deck-builders don't even address this issue because they're "carpenters" and don't get involved with masonry. But masonry work can replace baluster railings and give a spiral flare to wide stairs, like in the photo shown here.
I want to make mention of the revolution going on right now in California in which solid-plastic lumber is being used on designer decks for the planking, railings, facia, planters, lattice skirting and screens in place of wood. Let me emphasize that I'm not talking about "composites" here like Trex or Weatherbest, but about 100% recycled-plastic solid polyethylene lumber.
"Revolution" is not an overstatement -- it is truly a
real revolution. These decks are being built on very upscale homes. See the all-plastic decks below and right. Even the porch canopy and arch shown to the right are solid-plastic.
That deck a few pictures above with the floor-level hot-tub is an all-plastic deck. Surprised?
The spiral staircase pictured below here is an all-solid-plastic prefabricated deck add-on.
The curved railing and the attached conforming staircase pictured to the left below are only made possible on an exterior structure by the use of solid-plastic lumber.
All photos on this page that are bordered in [this color] are structures made from solid-plastic. You can read all about solid-plastic decking, including prices by clicking here. You're in for a real eye-opening.
Here are some designer deck add-ons: an integrated cover for dual AC cooling units on the left and a fold-down wall table on the right (see Products).
Not only does a professionally-built deck exhibit the basic extras like railings and steps, but it's the add-ons and finer details that make a deck a designer deck.
Just because a contractor shows you some deck pictures, that doesn't make him a deck-builder. Some of these guys build 50 decks a year, all pretty much alike. Just because the builder may have lots of pictures, it doesn't make him a master builder either. You can tell when seeing a builder's photos just what level of skill and experience the builder has by just looking at the details. The master craftsman pays attention to the details, not just the money.
Most contractors I know get themselves in a groove: they get their techniques down to a few that they can handle and are guaranteed to make them some profit. And they stick with that. They're limited in what they can do and that's why there's so much of the Plain Jane stuff out there. And there's always a market for the economy deck.
In this one webpage you got to see many different and original designer decks in just one place. And that education doesn't come cheap -- every time I did something new, I paid my dues to the school of self-Ed. But now my experience is way more varied than any other deck builder anywhere.
Actually, most deck-builders today are really not deck contractors at all but other types such as rough-framers or general contractors who think deck-building is an option when they're out of work. If someone is really a deckman, they will have a D41 classification under their California contractor's license. You can see what charlatans, who claim to be deck-builders, have fabricated just by scanning their web-photos on my Renditions of the Ridiculous page.
Designer decks built by a master craftsman obviously take more and better materials and more time to accomplish. But it's not just a better job for the money; it's also better money for the job. Of course, you have to treat me nice too. That's your insurance with me for a showpiece job -- I don't work for just anybody just because they're spending big bucks.
So if you want a showpiece deck that makes a statement about your own station in a world where mediocrity, duplicity and "cheap" are the norm and you are willing to consider the extra cost an investment, then give me a chance to design and build something spectacular for you that all the world can see.
The metal tubing needs to be protected from the long-term effects of rust. Before it is surrounded by concrete, you should paint the square metal tubing with a high-quality metal primer that claims to prevent rust. Paint both the exterior and interior of the metal tube. Let this primer dry for 24 hours and then apply a second coat of exterior finish paint that is made to coat exterior metal. The color does not matter since the metal tube will never be seen after it is installed.
The metal tube offers many advantages. It locks the bottom of the post so it can't rotate in any direction. The tube acts as a sleeve that allows you to remove the wood post with relative ease at some point in the future.
Stair Railings are installed as a safety feature, to prevent users from falling off the edge of the stair. They also provide a handgrip to help maintain balance while walking up and down stairs. The most common materials for stair railings are aluminum, steel, or stainless steel. Stair railings may also be made of self-supporting sheets of laminated or tempered glass, with a metal handrail running along the top of the glass sheets. Handrail dimensions are governed by safety codes published by the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), the National Fire Protection Association, and the International Code Council.
Do the railings come in other colors besides white?
Yes. All styles of Armor-Rail come in white, green, sand, and black. For a color swatch, see your dealer or our printed color literature.
Can I paint the railings?
Yes. Armor-Rail can be painted or trimmed in any color using a good quality, exterior grade paint. The factory recommendation is Polane exterior urethane paint. Sand all surfaces to be painted lightly, using very fine grit sandpaper. Wipe the sanding dust clean, and apply automotive plastic primer only to the molded brackets and caps (if they are to be painted). Then apply exterior grade coating using even flow of paint.
Can I cut the railing sections?
Yes. Sections of pre-assembled Armor-Rail come in convenient lengths of 8', 10', 12' and 14' that you can cut to suit your needs. For efficiency, try to cut short sections evenly out of longer pieces - for example, cut two seven-foot sections out of one 14-foot, or three four's out of a twelve.
What is the recommended method for cleaning?
To remove dirt, use common household cleaners, like dishwashing detergents, and a garden hose. For stubborn stains and mildew, use a cleaner made for vinyl siding. Do not use bleach or other products which may affect the color. Do not use abrasive detergents, scouring pads or devices, sanders, scrapers, or other tools, and do not use pressure-wash devices.
Does Armor-Rail meet building codes in my area?
Yes. Armor-Rail meets or exceeds most ICBO and UBC code requirements for dimension, safety, and strength. The railings are made in 36-inch, 38-inch, and 40-inch heights, and can be installed at a 36-inch or 42-inch railing mounting height, as required by local codes. The required toe space can be 2 or 4 inches. Check the building code for your area and choose the mounting height and toe space for your area.
How do I use the Flush Mount Post Bracket?
Curvoflite Stairs - Custom-built spiral and circular stairs - What keeps us one step above the rest is the fact that we truly, one hundred percent, shop build each stair before it leaves our plant. We dont fit just some of the parts, and pre-drill and prepare the rails to be fit and assembled on site by someone else. Curvoflite makes all their own parts (except some turned stock baluster profiles), rips and laminates their handrail material from one board of FAS Kiln dried lumber (best grade Oak) for best color selection, hand sands and shapes each rail so you dont see the lamination lines, and hand-turns the posts to compliment the baluster style selected. Curvoflite is the only company still laminating